What exactly *IS* Specialty Color?

In the past few weeks I have had  a lot of new clients scheduling appointments with me via my online scheduling site.  These clients have seen my work on social media and think "Oh yeah, that looks good, let me schedule a Balayage appointment because that is what she did in this picture".  WRONG!!!!  What clients DON'T know is that just because one client got basic Balayage, doesn't mean that is what will work for THEM!  There are so many factors that go into deciding on a technique (and ohhhhhh the techniques!) for each individual head of hair.  For example where are we starting?  What is currently on the hair that will either hinder the process or make my life as a stylist more easy? Hair texture, budget, maintenance....and the list goes on. This is why I require all new color clients to have an in salon consultation prior to their service.  Because, lets be honest, clients haven't been to cosmetology school and really don't know what it is they need to book anyway. And at the same time, if I am booking the appointment and I don't know where I am starting or finishing, I have no idea what the process is going to look like.  So back to the question at hand...

What exactly *IS* Specialty Color?

You could ask 100 stylists this and probably get 100 different answers, so I will give you MY answer!  Specialty color is color that is specialized to each unique head of hair.  How do you get from point A to point B to achieve the look?  If you are desiring a color that you see off of Pinterest, a partial foil (which is definitely not specialty color) is almost 1,000% not going to be the answer.  Many colors that we are seeing today on celebrities and social media, require several steps that only a trained professional can reproduce.  These colors are not basic, they are very involved and, once again, are specialized to each individual client.  What it took to get Suzy to a platinum blonde shadow root, may not be what it takes to get Pam to a platinum blonde shadow root, therefore it is SPECIALIZED to both Suzy and Pam.  

Now that we have answered the question of what specialty color is, lets talk about different techniques that fall under this category!  There are many but I have picked out a few of my own to talk about!

BALAYCOLOR 

Just as the name says, Balayage and Color = BalayColor.  This is a fairly easy technique to achieve and I typically do the most when I have a client that needs a root retouch but wants some blonde pops within the color.  You can add a much or as little balayage with this look as you like.  Even if you just want to add a few singles (we will get to that part) around the front to brighten the hairline, that will still look great with this technique!

COLORMELT

This technique plays off of the ever-popular Ombre or Sombre look.  It creates a gradual transition of dark to light.  Generally using 3 separate color formulas, the darkest will be applied at the root, the medium color through the mid shaft and the lightest on the ends.  

*Sidenote*  Lets go back to the Pam and Suzy situation.  In this case Suzy had old grown out balayage so this look was super easy to create, but Pam has a level 3 dark brown from roots to ends.  To get this look would be much more difficult for Pam as now she is considered a corrective color and will need to be lightened before her stylist can achieve this look.  Food for thought.  

BALAYAGE 

This is THE technique that all of the others stem from!  Balayage is a french term that literally means to sweep, as that is exactly how it is applied.  In a sweeping motion.  What makes it special?  There are different ways to apply balayage.  If you are looking for a more depth at the root (like the first picture), you might apply the balayage in "V's".  That adds highlights at the top as well, but focuses the color more strongly at the ends.  If you want more of a full blonde look (like the second picture) you might apply it in full panels.  That way, no negative space (natural color) is left and you are getting the full effect lightness at the top.  There are also singles and slants to name a few more.  

AMERICAN BALAYAGE

This technique is also referred to as "Foilayage" as well.  This is where you utilize tradition foils (which you get a much lighter effect from due to heat being generated within the foils) AS WELL AS balayage.  This look is going to give you maximum lift and brightness, but also has a lot dimension created by the two different techniques. 

And Lastly, 

SPECIALTY COMBINATION

Ok, I will be honest, that isn't really a REAL technique but its just my way of explaining a color that is much more involved.  This was a color correction from a dark dark brown and it is a combination of Foilayage and Colormelt.  But lets be clear, since this was a color correction, each was done several times to achieve this color.  But so worth it, right!!??

So I hope I have explained specialty color well!  Only a trained professional who has invested in education can achieve these looks!  When you see an add in a magazine about "at-home Ombre" (we like to call it "Hombre") RUN or put your stylists number on speed dial for an emergency correction!  

Happy Hair, friends!